A Fine-Dining Detour: Closure of Camel’s Crossing clears path for Hyde Park Wine Shop

Photos Courtesy of Hyde Park Wine Shop

Story by Courtnie Dawson

Camel’s Crossing hit Boise broadside, one of the first prix fixe dining locations in the city. As the pandemic landed in Ada County, they closed their doors, at first temporarily, then permanently. Suddenly, we have Hyde Park Wine Shop, with the same owners, same staff, even the same chefs, yet a completely different experience lies within those same doors. What happened?

It turns out, the wine shop was the true goal all along; Camel’s Crossing was merely a detour along the way. Sort of like the detour that laid the foundation of Scott and Caitlin McCoy’s life in Boise. After selling their house in Portland, the couple and their newborn child packed into a camper van and began their cross-country road trip to find their new home. They made it less than 450 miles.

“We were just passing through, but we fell in love with the area,” says Scott. “[Hyde Park] is the most idyllic neighborhood I had ever seen. We couldn’t imagine anything nicer and better than this.”

After witnessing the growth of Portland and its food and beverage scene, the McCoys saw the potential in Boise and jumped on the ground floor with plans to open a wine shop in the 99 square foot space of an old antique shop. But fate (and Scott’s friend and chef, Gavin) had other plans: fine dining

When Camel’s Crossing opened in 2017, wine was of course a part of the line-up, but the spotlight struck on a complex and intriguing food menu, crafted out of a broom-closet of a kitchen tucked in an alcove behind the dining area, taking intimate dining to an entirely different level.

“It was 99 square feet for 80 guests to enjoy 4 courses. It was a lot of fun, but it was the most stressful thing,” Scott says. “There was no space for error. Reservations had to be perfectly timed, dishes had to be perfectly timed. We wanted to give [guests] the best experience possible. We took it all super seriously.”

While it may have taken a few years off his lifespan, Scott’s white-knuckled grip on the reins of the restaurant’s operations paid off immensely. Camel’s Crossing gained a stellar reputation, even so far as to become Idaho’s highest acclaimed restaurant on OpenTable. Fast-forward to February, things were looking better than ever. 

But then a staff member caught COVID, shocking the business into temporary - and then later, permanent - closure. The two-month shutdown was an eyeopener for Scott and Caitlin, that maybe they had gone off course.

“After I had time to decompress, I realized how stressed I really was the whole time. I realized I didn’t want to do that anymore,” Scott says. “I never liked being known as the fancy expensive place anyway. That bummed me out, that has nothing to do with who we are.”

So Scott, Caitlin and their team used the pandemic as an opportunity to go back to the drawing board. After months of wine education, remodelling, and general fenageling, Hyde Park Wine Shop was born, a more comfortable, less stressful environment accessible to wine-lovers and foodies across the board.

“It got so stuffy because everyone was stressed out,” Scott says. “Now the barrier for entry is lifted. You can enjoy things at just about any price point. It’s the same vibe, but less pomp and circumstance.”

The transformation gave Scott the chance to release his grip on the service side, and leave the kitchen to the chefs. Gavin and a new sous chef are back to work on a tapas-style menu of wine-friendly small plates, once-in-a-lifetime bites with the same Camel’s Crossing flavors (yes, including octopus). 

Hyde Park Wine Shop houses nearly 3,000 bottles of wine between $12 and $750, including an entire section dedicated to Idaho-made wines. The space is made for all wine lovers to enjoy, whether picking up a bottle on the way home, grabbing a glass and tasty treat with friends, or participating in the Hyde Park Wine Club.

The regulars of Camel’s Crossing surely lament the loss of the four-course prix fixe menu, but can rest easy knowing the same people are hard at work reshaping that concept into a more casual, comfortable environment. So far, Scott says, the response has been overwhelmingly positive.

“It’s always a nerve wracking experience to change what you’re doing. But people are more forgiving in this climate for change. Most people are just happy we’re still around.”

As for the McCoys, the opening of Hyde Park Wine Shop has given them a chance to take a deep breath, relax, and enjoy doing what they love.

“I’m so lucky,” Scott says. “I get to work with my friends every day, and we have a lot more fun than we used to.”