Filling the Empty Spaces

Boise’s Orient Market struggles to fill void left by restaurateurs

Story and Photography by Gustavo Sagrero

Hoa Tu doesn't like his photo being taken, even if you ask extra politely. For a person who’s been at the helm of Orient Market for 15 years, you’d expect that the level of success would have gone to his head at this point, but not Tu. 

You’d probably also expect that he would have expanded his business to multiple locations, but that’s not the case. It’s just one Orient Market, and it seems like that’s how it’s going to stay, at least for now.

Through the years, there’s been a variety of changes, starting with Tu buying the business from a previous owner nearly 15 years ago. But there’s never been an expansion to create another market, because Tu has had other plans, like opening Baguette Deli down the road. 

After grabbing a drink at one of the nearby watering holes, or after a few rounds of bowling, starting out at the cross streets of Emerald and Orchard you’ll find yourself at the epicenter of a myriad of locally-owned spots, from Asian restaurants, to African markets, and Argentinian empanadas half a block down. His part, the Orient Market part, sits unassumingly at the edge of this hub, clad in stucco, next to a Greek market and sandwich shop.   

But behind the unusually sparse green shelves, the fluorescent lights, and stacks of quality rice, Tu has built something more important than just what exists within the four walls on this spot. Tu is a crucial source for many Boise restaurants for specialty items that can’t be found anywhere else.

If you mention his name or his market at any of the restaurants foodies love in Boise, or even further out west to Nampa you’ll likely find yourself a client of his. Tu is the primary supplier of basil to Baguette Deli,  Thai Longbean for Pad Thai House, rice flour to KIN, a few special items to Bittercreek, and even to food trucks like Lime and a Coconut, and this is only scratching the surface.  

“We’ve known each other for a long time” said Jenny Boutkaska, owner of Pad Thai House.“Probably since 1980.” The Pad Thai House has been around for almost as long as Orient Market, at least 17 years. 

“They have things we can’t get through other purveyors,” said Robby DeBolt, executive Chef at Diablo and Sons and Bittercreek.

Because so much of his business is supplying small quantities of special items to a long list of restaurants in the valley, he’s been hit pretty hard by the pandemic, which has either shut down or slowed half of the spots he provides for.

Not a lot of product is being sold these days. “This year is not very good,” said Tu.“We order less product, but when you order less product you have less chance of making more money.”

Tu’s calm voice as he explains this reflects a tone of decisiveness, like he knows what he’s doing. Without any help, like a new PPP Loan coming from the government, the sparse shelving starts to make sense, it’s all part of a plan to make sure the Orient Market survives the pandemic. Walk around on a Tuesday or Wednesday and you’ll see how empty things are, it’s not until the weekend order comes in that you see the shelves and coolers begin to fill up. But even then the store still isn’t entirely full. 

Orient Market is also encountering a hard time importing products, because of the pandemic. So much of the inventory comes in from overseas, it’s an even more complicated process to ship items now. It’s just something more they have to deal with. 

Despite being a primary source for  specialty ingredients in town, Tu rarely steps into the  establishments he provides for. He’s more of a homebody in that way. If he manages to weather the storm of this pandemic, businesses will open up again, aiding his return to fully-stocked shelves. And as the city continues to grow, Tu’s reputation ensures that more than likely, so will his network of restaurants he serves.